Mechanical trapping is the most reliable gopher control method I know. No poison risk to pets or birds of prey, no waiting days for a chemical to work — you set the trap, check it, and either have a gopher or move the trap. I've tested a lot of trap styles over the years. The three on this page are the ones that produce results consistently and have earned a permanent spot in my kit.
Quick Picks
Victor Easy Set Gopher Trap
Best for: Main tunnel intercept on active runs. The trap I use most.
The Victor Easy Set is a Macabee-pattern wire trap. Two spring-loaded wire arms close across the tunnel when the trigger plate is activated. Set two of them back-to-back facing opposite directions in the main run, cover the opening so light doesn't get in, and check daily — if nothing in one to two days, move them. When the run is active and the placement is right, this trap is built to do the job. If nothing is caught in 1 to 2 days, move it.
Pros
- Low cost per trap
- Fast to set once the technique is dialed in
- Durable — same traps can run for years of daily use
- High catch rate on correctly located active runs
- No bait required. Research found no benefit from bait; a dab of peanut butter behind the trigger is my own habit, not a proven catch-rate gain.
Cons
- Spring force can snap fingers during placement — heavy gloves required
- Entirely dependent on accurate tunnel location — a bad set catches nothing
- Wire ends can wear through thinner gloves over time
Victor Black Box Gopher Trap
Best for: Households with dogs or kids — the fully enclosed box has no exposed jaws, and it sets without opening a large hole in the run.
The Victor Black Box is a fully enclosed gopher trap — the gopher enters the box and trips a choker mechanism inside. Because the jaws are enclosed, there are no exposed springs near curious fingers, paws, or noses, and you can set it with a smaller tunnel opening than a bare wire trap. It's a touch slower to catch than an open wire set in the same run, but the enclosed design and simpler placement make it the one I hand to people who are nervous about the wire traps.
Pros
- Fully enclosed, so no exposed jaws or springs. It is still a trap: stake it, cover the hole, and keep pets and kids away from it.
- Less intimidating to set than an open high-tension wire trap
- Weather-resistant plastic housing holds up outdoors for years
- Sets with a smaller tunnel opening — less digging per set
Cons
- Bulkier than a bare wire trap — needs a slightly wider run to seat
- Typically a hair slower to catch than an open wire set in the same run
- Costs a little more per trap than the Easy Set
Cinch Traps (Scissor-Jaw Style)
Best for: First-time trappers, or anyone who finds the Victor wire mechanism difficult to set consistently without accidental misfires during tunnel placement.
Cinch traps use a scissor-jaw mechanism that many people find more intuitive to arm than the Victor wire style. The trigger geometry is less prone to firing during placement in tight tunnels. I use these as my backup when Victor sets aren't producing in a particular run geometry, or when I'm working with someone new who needs a more forgiving tool to start learning on. Catch rate is comparable to Victor when placement is right — alignment still matters, but the margin for error is wider.
Pros
- Scissor-jaw mechanism is significantly more forgiving to arm than Victor wire traps
- Fewer accidental misfires during placement in tight or curved tunnels
- Good trigger sensitivity when properly aligned in the run
- Solid catch rate — competitive with Victor when placement is correct
Cons
- More expensive per trap than the Victor Easy Set or Black Box
- Slightly bulkier body — harder to fit in narrow tunnel geometries
- Alignment is still critical — off-angle and the gopher pushes it aside
What to Look For in a Gopher Trap
The trap is only part of the equation. Placement accuracy matters more than which trap you buy. That said, trap choice does matter — here's what to weigh:
Full technique walkthroughs: Victor Trap Guide → · Cinch Trap Guide → · The Armory — all gear picks →
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best gopher trap for beginners?
Cinch Traps are the most forgiving starting point — the scissor-jaw mechanism is more intuitive and less prone to accidental misfires during placement. Victor Easy Set traps are cheaper and just as effective once you learn the technique, but the arming process has a steeper learning curve.
How many gopher traps do I need?
Always set two traps per gopher, facing opposite directions in the same main tunnel run. One trap leaves an escape route. Two traps set in opposite directions cover both ways the gopher can come from. For a standard single-gopher yard, 2 minimum. For a property with regular pressure, 6–8 lets you work multiple runs simultaneously instead of chasing one gopher across the yard.
Should I use bait with gopher traps?
Bait isn't required — mechanical traps fire on movement, not scent, and UC Davis studies found no benefit from adding bait to traps. I still dab a bit of peanut butter behind the trigger plate on most of my own sets, but that's personal habit, not a catch-rate claim — placement and technique are what actually matter.
How do I know if my trap placement is correct?
The trap should sit fully inside the main tunnel with the jaws spanning the full width of the run, and no soil touching the trigger. Cover the hole so light doesn't get in, which is what UC IPM instructs. Check daily. If nothing has happened in one to two days, the run wasn't active at that location; move the trap.